So, if you're following these articles chronologically and perhaps even going step by step with them, you should have a nice miniature that fits as closely as possibly to your character. The miniature should come either as several pieces or one just one whole piece. At this stage, there is little difference between the two, as we're going to start with cleaning them up.
This may come as kind of an odd idea, but let me explain. We're not going to put them in the dishwasher or anything, though I've known people to do that, we're just going to clean up any excess from the molding process.
You see, miniatures are made in a mold, which has two pieces: a top and a bottom. These two pieces are held together by pressure, creating a seal, and the mold is spun as hot metal is pushed into them. Thus the centripetal force pushes the molten metal into all the little spaces to properly create the miniature. That might be an oversimplification of the process, but I'm hardly a die maker or anything and that's my basic understanding of the process.
In any case, that pressure and the nature of mass production simply means that you're going to get a certain amount of mold line and extra bits of metal. The mold lines are just what you would think, the lines where the mold meets forming on the model. The extra pieces of metal, called "flash," can take many shapes but is generally any extra metal not normally on the model. Some miniatures will have more or less, depending on who is casting their models, the quality of the molds, and some other factors.
None of that, however, is really important. Really, when it comes down to it, it doesn't matter how they got there but that they need to be removed. So take your miniature and carefully inspect it, compare it to the picture if you have one and take note of where these discrepancies are.
Everyone loves tools, right?
Now this is where we have to really start by talking about tools. At this point, the preparation stage, you will need a set of hobby files, an x-acto style knife, and a pair of clippers. If you want to go a bit more intensive into this, you can purchase some emery boards (yes, the kind for filing nails), a file brush, a rotary tool with several polishing/grinding tools, a lamp with a swing arm, a magnifying device (either integrated with the lamp or the kind you wear on your head), and an air compressor with hose and nozzle. Going that far is a bit much, however I'll explain it all.
Your basic hobby files you can get at either your local shop, crafts store, and even stores like Home Depot. I actually bought one set from Home Depot and it worked just fine. The advantage to getting a set of these files is that they are cheap and usually come with several different shapes to get into different areas. You only really need one decent sized file, but when you can buy a pack of these for cheap, there's not much point in buying just the one unless you're replacing one you've broken or lost.
For knives, any hobby or craft shop will do and they should have tons of different kinds, types of blades, entire kits and singles. The best bet here is to buy one good knife and several replacement blades. You could get a sharpener, but there's not much point in it unless you just like doing that sort of thing. The blades are cheap and easily bought. I recommend just buying something simple like a triangular blade, but getting a kit can be helpful when you need that odd blade on occasion.
The clippers you can buy at any hobby shop. You can sometimes get appropriate ones at hardware stores like Ace, Home Depot, etc. Just check their tools and look for a small clipper. What you're looking for most is one that cuts flush, leaving a nice flat surface when you cut something away. You do not want the kind that leaves two sharped bits on both ends like a lot of clippers will do. You can tell which is which by simply looking at the tool. If one side is flat and the other has the pocket that shows the edge grind, then its the type you want. If both sides are ground down to form the cutting edge, then it will not cut flush. Better to spend more rather than less here, as with all tools, you almost always get what you pay for. The cheaper you go, the more likely that you will have to purchase a new one in the future.
I will briefly explain the other tools. The whole idea is to keep things simple and cheap, but I know some people like to go whole hog (me) so I'm going to talk about these items very lightly.
The emery boards are just for really fine filing, you could also use a very fine sandpaper. The file brush is to clean your files. A rotary tool has a lot of tools available that you could use to smooth and shape surfaces. The lamp is just for extra light to better see what you're doing. The magnifying device is just so you can see more closely what's going on with the model. The air compressor and nozzle can be used to blow off any grit or dust that may accumulate and also for an airbrush for the later stages.
All of this is in no way necessary. I have, at one time or another, used all of these things, but I find that the end product is not greatly effected by these items unless I'm seeking utter perfection, in which case there is even more to go into. This is not the point of these articles at this juncture, so this is all I'm going to address it.
Taking it down to the essentials...
Okay, so you've got your tools, you're in a nice secluded place, you have your tools and a place to work. It is worth saying that your area should be comfortable, especially your chair, and as well lit as possible. Don't work in the dark, no matter how mysterious you may be, you'll just end up in the hospital emergency room holding a flap closed on your hand. Yes, the flap that isn't supposed to be there. Even with the light on, you could still end up there, so let's talk a bit about safety.
The files are not your major hazard, but they can be dangerous. They often have sharp corners and when you're just wailing away on a model, getting one jammed into your eye isn't fun. Trust me on this one, IT. IS. NOT. FUN. Outside of stabbing yourself with the file, however, there aren't too many dangers with this tool as its just a way of removing material a little bit at a time.
Contrary to some beliefs, a file is a cutting tool of sorts. The edges you see are actually pointed in a direction, towards the end that isn't meant for you to grab it by. To use a file, you are only supposed to push it, not rasp it back and forth. You can use it this way, but its not the best, and it will remove material best on the push stroke. Pulling the file just runs a rough surface over the material and jams what material was already there even further into the crevices. This is also a point towards safety, as you can push the file away from you and not towards anything you deem important to your continuing happiness. A file to the groin is also on the list of "things that are not fun." I recommend avoiding that one, also. The best place to file would be on a table or at least poised above it, pushing the file away from you, gently, so that if it slips it will hit the table and not your tender flesh.
The knife is obviously a bit of a hazard. Please don't test its sharpness on your flesh. While I can attest to its ability to remove calluses, this is what we in the hobby call "not smart." It is also referred to in other means, but that kind of language doesn't belong in this article.
The blade on this type of knife is, shall we say, meant to be extremely sharp. Some will try to tell you they're like scalpels. Having watched a scalpel cut flesh, and an x-acto knife cut flesh (mine), I can attest that this is not true. A scalpel is sharp enough to make me nearly vomit with its effectiveness, a hobby knife is sharp enough to require a tourniquet and a towel.
Avoid cutting yourself if at all possible. To best do this, cut away from yourself, and leave nothing in the way of the blade's travel. This is a little difficult, at times when working with miniatures due to their size, but make the extra effort. Numb spots in your hands due to severed nerves are not helpful when working with miniatures.
Getting down to business... finally!
First, if you have any parts on sprue, (e.g. an arm or weapon attached to a strip of plastic or metal) cut those free using your clippers. The same safety rules applies to clippers as scissors. If you can't use scissors, don't use clippers, because you are much more likely to remove what you accidentally get between the jaws as the mechanical advantage of clippers is much greater. Running with clippers is probably just as dangerous, but that was grade school stuff, right?
Following the safety guidelines and bad humor above, we can start cleaning up our miniature. First, with just your finger, knock off any little pieces of flash you might see. It'll be like pulling a stray hair, just grab it with your fingers and pull it off. These days, the molds are much better than they used to be, so there shouldn't be too much, if any, of this kind of flash.
Next, we find the mold lines. Look closely at the model, turning it along along each axis and let the light play across the surfaces. When you encounter a raised surface, take your time and use the file to take them out. Putting your index finger in the top of the file will help you control the pressure, and gently push the file along the surface to start removing the offending line. Its best to take very little off, slowly, so you don't inadvertently take off something you want to keep. Just remove the lines, being careful to follow the contour of the model. As long as you don't push too hard or overdo the filing, you should be able to remove the line without too much trouble. On the backstroke, just life the file, place it just before the line, and push it across again repeatedly until the line is gone. Moving it slightly at an angle to file along a larger section of the line is preferable so as to remove the material more broadly and not create any dips or flat spots. This is harder to do, though, so going slowly and straight is also fine. Its something that comes with practice, and its not overly difficult, so don't worry about it too much.
Using the knife is much simpler, but more dangerous. Its just about cutting off any major disfigurements. Just follow the safety guidelines and nip off any larger portions that you do not want. Its worth stating here that all this filing and cutting business also applies to any parts of the miniature you just don't want. You might want to use the clippers first, cut off what's left, then file it all smooth. Experiment with this to find the best combination, but if this is your first miniature, I would limit it to the most basic and simple things like clipping, cutting, and filing off little things off of belts, symbols you don't want, and other minor items of that nature. Don't do major reconstructive surgery. We will cover that at a later time.
Okay, now you have a nice and clean miniature and parts. You should have been careful not to remove anything you wanted to keep on the miniature. if this was a single part miniature, you're almost done. Now we can move on to assembly, which for single piece miniatures is pretty easy, but with multi-part miniatures, almost as easy, but there are some complications that may arise that we need to talk about because you'll be using these miniature for play.
"Avengers, ASSEMBLE!"
For assembly, it may be that you can get away with just having super glue. Otherwise known as cyanoacrylate. It comes in many forms from many manufacturers. I have used a lot of different brands, mostly from hobby stores, and right now I have to say I'm actually in love with Dr. Bond's Super Glue Gel right now. I just came across it recently while at an automotive store. I was there to buy some new wiper blades but figured I'd look for some super glue while I was there. The local hobby shop in my immediate vicinity is... ummm... sub par. That's about as nice as I can put it. Anyway, I came across this stuff and thought I'd give it a try. I'd never tried a gel version, so why not? Worst case scenario is that I'm out $1.50 and have to go to the hobby store to buy some more. In any case, to make a long story short, it works GREAT. It bonds very well and isn't as bulky or smudgy as I thought it would be. It seems to fill in the gaps where it needs to bond very well and disappear from everywhere else. It warrants further exploration into its entire utility, but its definitely worked well so far.
In any case, there are many other types of super glue that work well. For miniature building, I recommend that you use some kind of "gap-filler" super glue. However, do not use it to fill gaps! Do not buy the heavy duty, super gap-filler type either. It will just get really cruddy and form a crust on your models unless you use it very sparingly. Ultimately, its up to you, but I don't recommend it. Better to use the regular gap-filler glue and put a little extra in there than to use the extra-thick stuff. Also, don't buy the extra thin kind or non-filling type of super glue because it will just run like water all over the model and create a really bad surface for painting. That type of super glue is great for certain types of building, but not so much for the variable surfaces of a character model. We'll get into the uses for that type of super glue later when we build set pieces and the like.
Any surfaces you plan on gluing together needs to be roughed up a bit. Either use a file or an Emory board and remove some material. Not a lot, mind, you're just trying to take away the surface layer. For a miniature to come out of the mold rather than just bond to it, there is a surface prep they put on the mold to let the model come out easily. Unfortunately, it also makes it difficult to glue those surfaces together as a lot of things do not want to adhere to it. That is why you file it down a bit so that you can expose the pewter and glue those bits together.
For a single-piece model, you just file it a little and glue it onto its base if there is one. Some miniatures come already attached to one so you may not need to do this. For multiple piece models, there can be a lot of things to put together, so take your time and clear the material first. Pre-fit it to make sure it will go together well, and adjust with knife and file to make sure it will fit nicely. Don't go overboard or you can ruin the fit quite a bit. Make minor adjustments at one time.
Place just a little bit of super glue in the space and attach the two pieces together with light pressure. Don't press too hard, you'll bend something or it will shift on you. The set time of super glue is not long, but hold the pieces together steadily for a few seconds before letting go and be very careful not to get any super glue on your fingers. The last thing you want to be doing is cutting a miniature off of your fingers. Not only is it an unpleasant experience, that hunk of flesh will now be stuck to your model and you'll have to get it off. Not so bad on smooth surface, but really bad on things like hair, chain mail, fur, and other textured surfaces. Take your time, this is going to be your representation in the game and it pays to spend some time here. Remember that every step affects the end, and while some minor mistakes may not ruin a model, many of them will eventually put it pretty off kilter. So take your time, "measure twice, cut once."
There will be some parts that are going to be weak links. A thin arm in two pieces, two flat surfaces at a critical spot and others where you'll want to reinforce the join beyond just gluing it together. This is where a technique called "pinning" is a good idea. The idea behind this technique is simple: reinforce the join with a rod to help it hold together. Going about this is fairly simple, but first we must discuss the hand drill.
The hand drill, sometimes called a "pin vise," is a drilling tool powered by... well, the hand. You can find it at most hobby shops. You put a small drill bit into the top of the tool and tighten it down in the vise, which is a simple variation on what you normally see on a power drill. You then hold the drill in your hand with the ball or top piece against the palm and use the fingers to slowly turn the shaft so that the drill can do the work. Its pretty self explanatory once you have one.
You use the pin vise to drill a hole on both parts you wish to join. Pick a spot that's relatively centered, make a mark with a file or knife. A good trick is to put a very small dollop of paint on your mark and then line up the part you wish to join there and touch the pieces together. The paint will then leave a mark on the opposite piece, where you drill the other hole. You will need a rod of some sort, either a brass rod you can buy at a lot of hobby shops, or just a paper clip or even some electrical wire. Anything will do, really, I've used everything from a toothpick to a large piece of flash from a model. The stronger the piece, however, the stronger support will be. Sometimes, you just need a little extra something to hold it together. Making the hole larger than the support piece will make it easier to fit and adjust, but a tight fit is best for strongest support.
Once you have done all the set up, making sure the rod is the proper length, glue the rod into one of the holes. Then place a bit of glue on the opposing hole and slide the rod into place and quickly adjust the piece for fit and hold it for a few seconds to make sure the super glue sets. Once that's done, let it cure for a little while. Super glue is a little odd in that it sets pretty quickly, but it takes a while longer to fully cure to its maximum strength. Depending on the formulation, it can be a few minutes to several hours to fully set. This usually doesn't become a problem unless you want to be really meticulous. Also, blowing on the glue doesn't do anything to help it, so just leave it alone once you've put it together.
You will sometimes see a product that will accelerate the curing process of super glue. I recommend against it. It weakens the bond and super glue usually sets pretty quickly. Usually, this is a product meant for people who've let their super glue sit out and get stale with an open cap. The super glue no longer functions as well as it did before and takes a long time to set. Thus, they get the accelerant to make it work better. Your results may vary, and some people are real advocates of this type of product, but I am pretty set against it after watching many a miniature break due to poor bonds. Easily fixed, but it can ruin a good paint job. It just pays to forgo shortcuts.
Until next time we meet....
Now you possess the basic knowledge to assemble a miniature. Take your time, do it right the first time, and don't get too flustered. Its all really simple, but anything done the first time has its own difficulties. Once you get the hang of it all, though, it should be quite simple, and there shouldn't be too many problems in assembling any given miniature. In the next article we'll cover primer, paint, brushes, and the basics of putting it on the miniature. Until then, get to putting those miniatures together!
